Landmark Sarah Sands Hotel reopens in Brunswick

After a long time on the bench, the landmark Sarah Sands Hotel returns in A-grade glory and cements its place as the pinnacle of the gastro-meets-traditional scene. Established in 1854, the iconic pub has stood to see Brunswick transform into the culinary, bohemian and cultural melting pot that it is well-loved for today. Situated at the Sydney and Brunswick Roads intersection, Sarah Sands reopened its doors in June 2021, and has generated a considerable following of loyal patrons. After the latest COVID lockdown, Milk Bar checked out the local pub and sampled some of the chef’s favourites.

The latest incarnation is a new venture by Melbourne-based food and beverage hospitality group Australian Venue Co. Think the Smith Prahran, Imperial Hotel Bourke Street in the CBD and Prince Alfred Hotel in Richmond. The venue is decked out in light timber panelling, brass details, indoor plants, and inviting shades of forest green and orange. On the first floor, one can find a 16-seat private dining room and a cosy, winter-friendly courtyard where you can sink back a beer and watch the bustling intersection outside. The second floor features a light-filled atrium, adorned with vibrant green-and-grey tiles and a mural by Loretta Lizzio.

Now, onto the masterpiece, the menu. Executive Chef Telina Menzies has curated a lavish and modern offering while remaining loyal to classic pub meals. Menzies’ vision sees patrons ordering traditional counter meals alongside dishes where vegetables take centre stage, opting for native ingredients to enhance the flavour.

‘It’s a little bit nostalgic and a little bit new. I want people to feel at home right away at Sarah Sands, but also keep things fresh and help make everyday occasions with friends and family feel a bit special,’ Menzies notes.

We were seated in the venue’s ground-floor, 38-seat dining room and sampled the chef’s selection. To start, Coffin Bay oysters served with a lemon myrtle and plum dressing. For snacks, you really can’t go past the crispy haloumi – it’s to die for! Picture stacked bricks of haloumi drizzled with local honey and fig leaf oil, and garnished with more figs, pepperberry and mint. Honestly, this is one snack item that will stay with you. Fried chicken lovers will get a kick out of the Keen’s buttermilk fried chicken accompanied by tamarind yoghurt.

The mains feature all the usual suspects that grace every staple counter pub meal. Think 300-gram chicken schnitzel, smoked ham parma, fish and chips and a classic cheeseburger. We opted for the 200g-gram Bavette cut of Jack’s Creek wagyu, which was a lean, grain-fed steak cooked to perfection.

To put a cherry on top of the night’s lavishness, feel free to divide and conquer the old school banana split. Scoop up a delicious serving of chocolate and coconut ice cream, burnt banana, cream, peanuts, espresso martini choccy sauce and a literal cherry on top. Coming in second is the 3-milk flan, which is constructed of Schulz organic goats milk, caramel and roasted white chocolate.

Sarah Sands Hotel is open 7 days a week and hosts the traditional Parma Night (Monday), Steak Night (Tuesday), $15 pizza and trivia (Wednesday), and a Sunday Roast. We expect that Sarah Sands will become everyone’s favourite neighbourhood pub. It is the perfect venue to sink some beers with mates or wine and dine with someone special.

We give Sarah Sands the chef’s kiss!

Sarah Sands Hotel
29 Sydney Road, Brunswick, 3056
Open 7 days, Monday to Thursday, 12pm–11pm, Friday and Saturday, 12pm to late, Sunday, 12pm–11pm
sarahsandshotel.com.au