Two By Two

It’s rare to find an eatery in Melbourne that specialises in both the bacon, eggs and pancakes of brunch goers as well as classy dinner dishes for those desiring elegant yet affordable fine dining, but Two by Two is one of them – at least from Thursday to Saturday.

The expansive, sun-filled space opens for brunch and lunch with inventive dishes such as roast pumpkin smash, goat’s cheese, coriander and crispy shallots on chia seed toast as well as buckwheat pancakes with banana, pistachio and mascarpone.

Flanked by a timber feature wall, suspended light fittings and floor-to-length windows looking out onto the bustling High Street thoroughfare, Two by Two comes to life at night however. The brunch dishes give way to sophisticated fare that debunks the stereotype of miniscule servings at exorbitant price tags.

The oysters are light and fresh; an appropriate way to kick off a three-course meal. On to mains, the stout braised beef cheek perched atop potato puree and beetroot is heavenly as it melts in your mouth, although it is a touch under-seasoned. The dory – poached in red wine, Jerusalem artichokes, hazelnut and lardons – is crisp and tasty.

But it is dessert that truly blows the mind. Akin to a deconstructed dessert with each element taking centrestage in beautiful presentation, hazelnut parfait and walnut crumble are coupled with golden sweetened raisins, clotted cream and mini meringues. The result is a party in the mouth that steers clear from the stodgy heaviness people normally associate with desserts.

With a relaxed feel befitting its down-to-earth offerings and friendly, well-informed service that is never overbearing, Two by Two is perfect for catch-ups where you don’t have to strain your ears in conversation – with delicious food to match.

Two By Two
235 High Street, Northcote
(03) 9486 5885
8.30am to 3.00pm Wednesday, 8.30am to 11.00pm Thursday to Saturday, 8.30am to 3.00pm Sunday
twobytwonorthcote.com.au