True North Osteria

Coburg’s cultural melting pot and mix of eclectic eateries make for a foodie’s heaven. True North seamlessly fits in the patchwork of venues and is beloved by many for its heavy metal beats, veggie eats, brunch dishes and craft beer options. The popular café and watering hole has re-introduced its dinner menu and night trade in the form of True North’s Osteria.

Open from Wednesday to Saturday nights, the revolving nightly menu is inspired by Italian cuisine with a strong focus on sourcing ingredients locally daily, from CERES and other neighbourhood businesses. Head Chef Hemi Rakei Reidy – known for his stints at Ray in Brunswick and CERES itself – prides him as a sustainability warrior, championing the pit-to-peel rationale. So what some people consider kitchen waste, Reidy re-incarnates items such as carrot greens, feijoa skins and fennel tips into fermented drinks, kimchi and stocks for cooking. 

The unique menu is a culmination of hearty, authentic Italian dishes, sustainable food practices, and Reidy’s Maori roots. ‘I see the Osteria as a chance to tie together all the roots of my cooking, community and Kaitiakitanga (stewardship of the lands). And through this ask more questions about how we can be better, whether it’s diving for kelp for out puttanesca, long walks with friends collecting for our drinks or chatting with our local farmers and makers,’ says Reidy. 

Milk Bar visited the Coburg eatery one Friday night. Attentive staff were ready to guide us through the menu and drink options. While some may consider the finishes a little busy, I was taken with the holy trinity of bohemian, eclectic and vintage collection of knick-knacks and assorted paraphernalia. Think Mr T portraits and a plethora of other paintings, Vegemite ‘True North’ jars, various ceramics, and lush greenery. 

The menu of the night included a range of snack options, big dinner choices and dessert. To start, we ordered kumara arancini adorned with pickle, mayo and dandelion, then the manaia cerviche and summer veg. The arancini were satisfying and moist; the vegetarian ceviche was fresh, light and tangy. For dinner, we opted for the cauli Bolognese spaghetti then the mustard green agnolotti, feta, cos salad and capers. Both options were inventive and ambitious. The cauliflower Bolognese was filling. The agnolotti was an excellent choice, although it may not be for everyone. To end the feast, we had chocolate mousse served with plum, popcorn and rosemary. Unfortunately, this wasn’t my favourite dessert – most likely because I am not a fan of chocolate mousse (don’t hate!). I found that the flavours didn’t work well together, and the popcorn wasn’t in the best shape. There are many beer options – and pints come in skull-shaped glasses – and cocktails, so feel free to order yourself an espresso martini!

True North Osteria is definitely a genre venue. On the first Thursday of every month, the venue holds a trivia night hosted by Tristan Harris and every second Saturday of every month, the True North AV Club screens cult classics with snacks, drinks and free popcorn.

A welcoming, rock ‘n’ roll paradise, True North is the Coburg venue where you can take a date, enjoy drinks with mates and play some pinball with a delicious cocktail or bev nearby.  

True North
2A Munro Street, Coburg, 3058
Open 7 days, Monday and Tuesday, 8am–3pm, Wednesday to Saturday, 8am–late, Sunday, 8am–3pm
truenorth3058.com