NGV’s Japanese Modernism

Kimono in a loud print. An accompanying obi in a different but equally vibrant print. Brooch. Beaded handbag. Hat. Hair pins. Traditional sandals. A blend of traditional Japanese garments with international Western influences. Such is the ensemble of a young Japanese woman living in 20th century modernist Japan. A culturally significant period bookended by two disasters that flattened cities are all tied together by an exhibition showcasing the rise of modernism after the devastating 1923 Kanto earthquake in Japanese society and its eventual disappearance at the hands of World War II. 

Japanese Modernism is an exclusive exhibition by the NGV showcasing more than 190 multi-disciplinary works created during the first half of the 20th century, featuring Asian art deco paintings, prints, design and fashion. 

The 1920s and ‘30s were a time of flux for youth and in particular, young women, in Japan. Towns underwent major metamorphoses into vibrant and modern metropolises. Coupled with increased international travel and influences, a sense of optimism and pleasure-seeking allowed moga (modern girls) to thrive. Many of the works in this exhibition are a testament to this period being seen as the first financially liberated era for young women in Asia. 

For the first time in Japanese history, women were allowed to participate in the economy, both as workers and as consumers. Many moga, now financially independent, delighted in drawing the distinction between themselves and their parents’ generation and expressing their modernity via their fashion and appearance. Instead of departing completely from traditional attire, strong sentiment for Japanese culture meant young women decided to mesh together traditional items like kimonos and obi waist sashes with internationally-inspired accessories, creating a new fashion style. 

Japanese Modernism also highlights female artists who succeeded in the male-dominated art world during this burgeoning modernist era in Japan. Taniguchi Fumie’s Preparing to go out (Yosoou hitobito) greets you as you enter the exhibition. Printed on a six-panel folding screen reminiscent of Matsuura screens, the painted masterpiece celebrates the modern woman of her time, transitioning from traditional to contemporary fashion with items symbolic of international influence on women’s fashion. Women also make up the majority of the subject matter on the collections of posters, magazine covers and music album covers included in the showcase.

Other curations in the exhibition include interior design items such as glassware, lacquerware and bronzeware along with men’s fashion, where their kimonos are exhibited inside out – you’ll have to check out Japanese Modernism to find out why. 

Japanese Modernism is on display at NGV International from Friday, 28 February til Sunday, 4 October. 

Japanese Modernism
Till Sunday, 4 October 2020
National Gallery of Victoria, 180 St Kilda Road, Melbourne, 3006
ngv.vic.gov.au/exhibition/japanese-modernism