Prince

St Kilda institution Prince is notorious for its dark rooms, sticky floors and vodka raspberry. Many in our generation have endured sweat-clad crowds to be in close proximity with global music juggernauts. For me, Disclosure is one that springs to mind.

After much anticipation, the rejuvenated Prince Public Bar is harder, better, faster, stronger than it’s ever been. The pub’s decor and fit-out features light wood panelling and furniture, modern lighting fixtures and makes the most of its art deco architectural finishes. IF Architecture’s Iva Foschia is the brains behind the revamp and has masterfully created a light, roomy space while the large oval island bar takes centre stage.

‘I’m excited to show Melburnians and tourists alike just how far the Prince has come, while not losing sight of its colourful and quirky past. It’s important to feel comfortable and at home in a pub, and we’ve created a menu and venue that encourages people to return two, three times a week,’ says Managing Director Andrew Ryan.

At the kitchen’s helm is head chef Dan Cooper. The man behind establishments like Circa, Garden State Hotel and Aria, Dan has crafted an approachable menu that pays homage to classic counter meals while also catering to modern tastes.

Milk Bar enjoyed a Sunday sesh at the Prince and navigated the menu, morsel by delectable morsel. For starters, we ordered a serving of fresh oysters with sherry mignonette and cheeky margaritas on the side. (All the salt is a serious hangover cure!) The range of bar snacks is quite impressive, almost overwhelmingly so, but we opted for the polenta chips and the smoked ham and gruyere cheese croquettes.

As we eyed off the various counter meals and wood-fired hearth and rotisserie our eyes wandered to the crispy braised pork knuckle with plum sauce. This decision was vehemently supported by our waitress. The recommendation we received was to remove all the meat from the bone and mix it with the plum sauce. Paired with a side serving of steamed greens and salted ricotta, the combination of sweet, salty and sour was exquisite and well balanced; as for the pork, it literally fell off the bone.

The next instalment of the royal offering is the boutique wine bar and store called Little Prince Wine. Opening in late March, the intimate venue is ideal for aperitivo sipping or night caps alike, and patrons can order a range of limited-release local and international drops while grazing over bountiful spreads or charcuterie. Think dishes like tinned sardines accompanied by crusty bread, olives and premium cheeses.

As we have grown up – disgruntled, or otherwise – Prince has also matured and refined its tastes. In 2020, Prince Public Bar is the type of messy friend who pulled up their socks and graduated with a PhD.

Prince Public Bar
29 Fitzroy Street, St Kilda, 3182
Open 7 days, 7am to late
theprince.com.au