Tenpin

You know those nights when you and your foodie crowd can agree on a general foodie direction, but everyone has a bit of a particularity in mind? One wants dumplings, another nibbles, the other a hearty stir-fry?

Cue: Tenpin, a relaxed South East Asian eatery perched smack bang on Port Melbourne beach.

Plugged as an express journey throughout Asia, Tenpin is your go-to for pleasing curious Melbournites; everything is executed with a nod towards authenticity yet kept general enough to please large crowds. With your options directed by a former Chin Chin chef (Ashley Richey) there’s no doubt that you’ll leave with a positive impression.

Standing out with its eccentric design finish: wide glass windows, high ceilings, wood finishes and low, modest lighting contrasted with pops of bright red and a massive, unmissable novelty bowling pin (the namesake of the venue), the space has a humble energy that’s immediately inviting. The kitchen overlooks the dining room, a sure-fire way of giving any space an energetic buzz.

The service balances an enviable mix of friendly and laidback yet urgent; our waitress has an air of acquaintance with everyone in the restaurant, but keeps her feet light and her manner earnest in the effort of getting it done (it’s a fairly big floor to be friendly on). I ignore the menu and prompt them to ‘surprise me’, a great way of getting things I like, things I would ordinarily glance over and things the venue like to highlight.

Its seconds before a gleaming betel leaf is laid out, topped with a combination of sticky pork, prawn, peanuts and pineapple. It’s sweet, with a delightful bite from the leaf. A large plate of kingfish sashimi comes next, the tenderness of the fresh fish offset by roasted peppers, coconut cream, Vietnamese mint and puffed rice. Paired with succulent, spicy chicken wings and soft roti bread, we’re sent over the edge with satisfaction once an aromatic green chicken curry is proffered. We feel full and warm, in that way that only sensual, nutritious food can provide.

A dessert of 5 spice poached pear, sago and coconut crumble (try saying that quickly 3 times) is just as appetising and fulfilling as it’s made out to be; fat hunks of pear sit cosily on top of a sticky sago pudding, bitten back by a sprinkle of crunchy coconut clusters.

Drinks wise, the wine list is humble and easy, with the cocktails taking a South East Asian spin to keep things interesting; another not to the crowd pleasing nature of the restaurant.

No matter the weather, you can certainly find a satisfactory seat here, either settled out in the sea breeze or cosily huddled back from the windows for warmth. They don’t like Mondays, but are open every other day.

Tenpin 
49 Beach Street, Port Melbourne
Open Tuesday to Thursday, 5pm to late, Friday to Sunday, 12pm to late
tenpinkitchen.com.au