Chato Tapas Bar

High Street, Thornbury is known to local Northsiders for being hip, vibrant and unique. My drive north takes me past several dimly-lit bars, local independent cafes and stores, Spanish language schools and interesting public areas. It is no wonder then that this location has been chosen for Thornbury’s hippest new restaurant, Chato Tapas Melbourne. It seemingly embodies all Thornbury’s characteristics, as well as bringing a sense of elegance and international flavour to the popular strip.

Co-founder and Head Chef Maria Echevarria-Lang (of Toorak’s Caffé e Cucina), along with partner Jenny Echevarria-Lang, have gone back to their roots with Chato, opening a restaurant fuelled by local produce and offering authentic Spanish dishes that have become so much a part of the Melbourne food culture. The interior, designed by local company Kalliopo Vakras Architects, is warm, rustic and modern. It is well-lit and provides a great ambience reminiscent of the vibe felt across Spain. Being at Chato instantly transports me back to my time spent in San Sebastian’s pintxos bars – the Basque country’s answer to tapas. Over a delicious Vermouth and soda concoction at the bar, I learn that the majority of the staff at Chato hail from Spain, and the Madrid-born barman and I discuss the geography of the motherland and the different regions. He tells me that Biarritz, a southern French town, is actually a part of the Basque region in Spain! The local knowledge is captivating and adds to the authenticity of the restaurant.

The kitchen is clearly visible through the strategically-placed pass in the back wall of the restaurant, seemingly incorporating all aspects of the dining experience. Maria is clearly evident in the kitchen, and the chefs are performing in a seamless fashion under her guidance. When the food arrives, the aromas fill the restaurant and the anticipation amongst the diners is palpable. We are treated to mouth-watering rare, marinated lamb, the ‘pick-of-the-menu’ chicken croquettes (or ‘croquetas de pollo’ if we’re being linguistically correct), and “Flamenca” – tomato and chorizo ragu with egg and shavings of crispy ham. All dishes are superbly delicious, aesthetically pleasing and evocative of true Spanish cuisine. Other picks of the menu include char-grilled sardines, melt-in-your mouth chorizo deglazed with wine and a Spanish salad called “Verdura Catalana” – spinach sautéed with currants and almonds. The food exemplifies Chato’s characteristics; hip, vibrant and unique.

We meet Maria after dinner, who happily pops her head out of the kitchen for a chat. Her broad Australian accent surprises me, but she tells me that she moved to Australia 36 years ago and hence that mystery is solved. Maria still has the love of her homeland burning inside however, and you can clearly see the passion she has for her Spanish roots and the culture she has instilled at Chato. Upon meeting in person, Maria and Jenny realised that they had actually been coincidentally crossing paths for the past 15 years. Both with long-standing links to the hospitality industry, it seems like fate that they should finally partner up to create Chato. Their son, Felix, is already itching to work in the family business.

With a strong family backing and an incredibly tasty menu featuring fresh, local produce, it’s easy to see why Chato has already become Thornbury’s favourite little slice of Spain. Chato, meaning “small glass of wine”, is appropriately open during the day, as well as for dinner, so you may too be able to enjoy the authentic Spanish traditions that us Melbournians have come to love.

Chato
921 High Street, Thornbury
chato.com.au