The North Melbourne Hotel

Since refurbishing and reopening The North Melbourne Hotel last year, Bouzy Rouge owners Sandra and Jose De Oliveira are ready for autumn with a new menu that continues to draw on a number of European and Mediterranean traditional cuisines to create a wholly unique, and relatively inexpensive, dining experience.

The new menu, which includes two set sharing menus, offers a range of dishes from across Europe. On the night that Milk Bar Mag attended, we were treated to a set of entrées that included jalapeno poppers, filled with cream cheese and wrapped in pancetta, duck liver parfait with house pickled baby cucumbers and toast, and a mushroom, truffle and polenta croquette. The poppers were crunchy little things that burst with flavor and the right amount of spice to set your tongue alight while the duck parfait was a wonderful balance of flavours between the rich, almost sweet duck liver and the sour tang of the house pickles.

Slow roasted chicken with a tomato and coriander salsa formed the main while dessert was crema catalana, a Spanish dessert similar to a crème brulee and flavoured with cinnamon and orange rind. The chicken, with its tender meat and crispy skin, was devoured to the bone while the traditional terracotta bowl the crema catalana was served in was rapidly licked clean.

The drinks menu is similarly extensive and with a wide range of beers and wines from Australia and Europe for the seasoned drinker to choose from. While the wine list supports the very best from Italy and Portugal, their selection of beers, on tap and bottled, favours local breweries and craft beers, starting with their very own North Melbourne Draught.

Having made a habit during their time in Melbourne of transforming almost derelict venues into elegantly furnished casual dining spaces and bars, the De Oliveria duo have continued that trend with The North Melbourne Hotel, creating a relaxed and comfortable atmosphere matched with exquisite food. If a trip to the continent places too much strain on the bank balance, then a trip to North Melbourne may be the next best thing. Or possibly even better.

The North Melbourne Hotel  
480 Victoria Street, North Melbourne
Open Tuesday to Saturday, noon to midnight, Sunday, noon to 5pm
thenorthmelbournehotel.com.au