NGV: Gabrielle Chanel. Fashion Manifesto

Jump out of those shabby lockdown sweats and into a world of glamour and luxury with NGV’s newest exhibition: Gabrielle Chanel. Fashion Manifesto. Hot from Paris, this stunning collection of Chanel pieces has been curated to wow! The exhibition showcases the glamour and glory of awe-inspiring items from French couturière Gabrielle Chanel (1883–1971), also known iconically as Coco Chanel.

Wander through the creative mind of Coco Chanel through chronological and thematic sections, packed with dresses, suits, jewellery, accessories, bags and more. With loans from the Direction du Patrimoine de CHANEL, Fashion Manifesto was developed by fashion museum Palais Galliera and premiered in Paris in autumn 2020. Donning the title of the most creative state in Australia combined with our exquisite fashion culture, it was fitting to house this collection’s international debut in Melbourne.

There is no denying that Coco Chanel was a pioneer in women’s fashion. Her indisputable style, taste and vision were, and still are, unmatched in the fashion world. From the iconic Chanel suit to the 2.55 handbag, a Chanel piece is a recognizable, timeless investment that never loses style or value.

With over 100 items of ready to wear pieces, couture, jewellery, accessories and illustrations, this collection follows the themes of Coco’s visions. Curated themes include The Emergence of a Style, The Expression of a Stark Luxury, The Suit, or the Embodiment of Freedom, The Chanel Codes, In Praise of Adornment and The Revived Allure. These themes exude elegance and style while illustrating the process and history behind Chanel’s creative genius.

From the evolution of the little black dress to the moveability of clothing, Chanel’s pieces challenged everything we knew about womenswear. Showcasing rare pieces, such as Chanel’s early daywear and wool jersey suits, striking floral motifs, lace evening wear, romantic period gowns from the 1930s and more, this exhibition will make you want to go on the hunt for a vintage Chanel piece. With her favourite colourways, materials and designs, drawing inspiration from sportswear, these elegant dresses and suits are forever modern and chic.

Debuted in 1910, the iconic tweed suit is, of course, a highlight from the exhibition. Worn by First Lady Jacqueline Kennedy, Princess Grace of Monaco and actresses Marlene Dietrich, Romy Schneider and Lauren Bacall, this is the most distinguishable design from Chanel. Popular still to this day, the sophistication of the Chanel suit oozes elegance while also remaining functional. Created as two or three-piece suits, made in lightweight woven tweed or wool bouclé and defined by tailored lines, these items allow for ease of movement and comfort. With clever use of gilt buttons and braiding for both decoration and structure, this exhibition showcases a large range of this timeless design.

Peacefully beautiful, an NGV show never disappoints in the ambience it exudes. With dimly lit rooms, spotlighting, vintage catwalk and marketing videos on loop and walkways with feature lighting, Gabrielle Chanel. Fashion Manifesto is an absolute feast for the eyes.

With no better way to enter back into the real world than a glamorous spread put on by the NGV, Gabrielle Chanel Fashion Manifesto is a refreshing way to view a striking collection of clothing and to learn the history of one of the most influential designers and possibly the most iconic women in fashion history.

Feeding Melbourne’s economy and reclaiming our title as the creative state, this exhibition celebrates fashion as it was and as it is today. Complemented by an audio guide narrated by house ambassador Tilda Swinton exclusively for the NGV, take the whole family and delve into a whirlwind of fashion from 4 December 2024 – 25 April 2022.

NGV: Gabrielle Chanel. Fashion Manifesto
National Gallery of Victoria, 180 St Kilda Road, Melbourne, 3006
Till 25 April 2025
ngv.vic.gov.au/exhibition/gabrielle-chanel-fashion-manifesto

Images: Tom Ross