Mister Bianco

It’s dark, gloomy and there’s a very bitter chill to this Wednesday night in Kew. It’s the kind of evening where you dare to venture onto the streets in search of one thing and one thing only: a hot meal and a cosy place to eat it in.

Enter, Mister Bianco.

We’re on site for a networking dinner and have absolutely no trouble locating the restaurant; the glowing monochrome sign is visible from a mile down the street. The setting spills out onto the street with a number of tables fit for two to three. It’s somehow incredibly intimate and inviting at the same time.

Inside, the low, warm lighting is offset against stark white and brick walls. The setting is complimented with large print images and paintings, meticulously placed front facing wine bottles and close-knit, smartly dressed tables, all of which add to the easy-going nature and warmth of the venue.

Joseph Vargetto of Langton’s, Number 8 and Oyster Little Bourke (which is now Mezzo) has designed the menu to celebrate authentic Sicilian food, whilst also integrating a touch of modern Australian and his own whimsy tickled into the mix.  Our large roundtable is set with olive oil, salts, mineral water and butter, hinting at plenty of opportunities to dip, nibble and tipple.

We’re first offered shared courses: stuzzichini, the Southern Italian equivalent of antipasti, with the meaning ‘to pick’; and are suddenly overwhelmed by the scent of meat, cheese and freshly baked hot bread. The arrancino are delivered in a ceramic eggholder, offering a side of theatre with the rich roasted garlic aioli on top, and the raw tuna rounds are accompanied by a delicate cucumber gazpacho and swirls of avocado. The real showstopper is the burrata mozzarella – a ‘money bag’ of goodness which swirls it’s insides through the surrounding pesto and candied prosciutto when sliced through. A real delight to mop up with the hot sourdough bread rolls accompanying our starter.

It wouldn’t be an Italian meal without a touch of pasta, and we’re inundated with another sensational scent as the shared pasta course enters the room. A single large ravioli, filled with fine scallop and prawn, is surrounded by a butter emulsion and topped with pepitas and black truffle. Now, I would consider myself a foodie, in the sense that I just love food. But I don’t consider my palette that fine (could I have some fries with my ice cream please?) and in my entire lifetime I never thought I’d eat black truffle, mostly for the case that it is not something I would ever endeavour to eat. But if this is black truffle, and it is possible to encounter this taste sensation ever again, I hereby vow to marry a truffle farmer in the hope that I get it on a daily basis. It. Is. That. Good.

Whilst it might seem impossible to follow that kind of a meal, Mister Bianco have really laid it out for us tonight, and as soon as our pasta plates are cleared, the main courses arrive. Perfectly cooked duck breasts rest atop crisp asparagus stalks, milling in a quince puree and black pepper sauce, as well as a Black Angus porterhouse steak complemented by a zesty caponata and salmoriglio. Yes, I had to look up what those words meant. Yes, they are as enticing and flavoursome as they sound.

As the food digests and the night winds down, we’re offered coffees, teas and cannolis; fresh, plentiful pastries filled with the richest, yet lightest, of creams. The ambience is starting to reflect the audience, and in one clear moment I see how you could spend hours here…mostly because we have, and couldn’t have noticed if you’d set a clock on the table in front of us. It’s warm, yet airy, and the dimmed lighting has created a closeness and a happiness that a good meal can bring.

All the winning ingredients for a fabulous restaurant and an equally wonderful experience. Well delivered, Mister Bianco.

Mister Bianco 
285 High Street, Kew
Open Monday to Wednesday, 6pm to late, Thursday & Friday, 12pm to late and Saturday, 6pmto late
misterbianco.com.au