Food and Drink
Posted by Dan Kuseta
03. Jun, 2013
Melbourne’s apparently inexhaustible capacity and appetite for new restaurants can be a double-edged sword – or filleting knife. On one hand there’s a constant stream of new places and flavours to sample, on the other it can be easy to overlook restaurants that have stood the test of time by doing what they do very well, day after day.
Sarti is such a place. The refined Italian restaurant on Little Collins has one of Melbourne’s best rooftops and high-quality, if a little expensive offering. I haven’t been since John Howard was in office. Until last week that is.
Turns out Sarti’s had a refresh, with a new look, chef and menu to boot. Inside the smart refit has seen white tablecloths swapped for communal tables and mood lighting, while the courtyard now comes with a retro neon sign and projection screen showing old Italian movies.
Inside the menu cuts a swathe through Italian classics with a penchant of meatiness like pancetta di maiale (pork belly, parsnip puree, baby turnips, blood pudding crumb, $35) and risotto alla milanese (saffron rice with veal, bone marrow, $26). These are balanced with more modern dishes with regional produce including the coniglio agrodolce (sweet and sour Macleay Valley rabbit with baby onion and sultanas, $38) and spaghetti alla chitarra (black in pasta, WA blue swimmer crab, fresh tomato, garlic, chilli, $28).
For the price and quality Sarti is looking more like a place you’d want to visit, or revisit, on more than a special occasion. Plus they’re doing a four course lunch dego for $40. Go on, have a crack.
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