Breakfast for a song at Pei Modern

So did you hear the one about how Pei Modern does the best ‘new bistro’ food in Melbourne? Well, guess what else they do?

Breakfast.

No shit. You can have one of the best chefs in the country make you breakfast. Well. Sort of. Mark Best (of Sydney’s award-winning restaurant Marque) is probably not in the venue but hey, we were willing to take that chance.

Breakfast at Pei goes down in the bar area, a thin line of eight or so bench tables off to the side of the main restaurant, pale wood and a wall-length distressed mirror creating the illusion of space (and summertime in Sweden).

It’s a simple yet elegant affair, serving 7.30am until 11.30am then rolling into the blackboard lunch menu (no bookings). Tapping into the same all-star cast from the main restaurant kitchen the breakfast menu sings with fresh, quality ingredients and uncluttered execution.

To eat there are Green Eggs, and you might have those sunny-side up with smoky bacon ($14) or boiled with brioche soldiers for a sweet yolky twist ($10). Cuca sardines (that fancy Spanish kind that make all other canned sardines look like cat food) rest on long thin toasts with a tangy tomato puree and a little green heirloom tomato to cut through the oily fish ($12). Magnificent. Fruits, yoghurts and grains all make an appearance too.

We’d say the only disappointment was the inconsistency of the coffee – sometimes average and sometimes ordinary they could do to book a barista rather than rely on staff that excels in other areas.

But aside from that one tiny gripe we’re not complaining. We’re having seconds. It’s such a downright bargain how could you afford not to?

PEI MODERN
45 Collins Street, Melbourne
9654 8545
7 days: Breakfast served 7.30–11.30am
peimodern.com.au