Food and Drink
Posted by Dan Kuseta
30. Jan, 2012
I like the little strip on the northern end of Lygon Street, just before it curves past Albion up towards Coburg. On one side of the street you’ve Hellenic Republic, The Brunswick East Project and the Mi Corazon tequila bar. On the other side you’ve got pokies pub The Lyndhurst Hotel and a 24-hour Maccas.
Somewhere in-between lies Each Peach, the cafe with a homely, slightly shambolic feel. Inside a chalk board menu spruiks the specials of the day, there’s vintage sugar bowls and cutlery aplenty plus a bookcase filled with jams, tea pots and some books.
There’s an outside area with wrought-iron chairs my mum used to have and an upstairs bit where other mums were playing with their kids. I kept downstairs.
Foodwise it’s a hippy-dippy/veg-friendly mix that’s a level above what you get a the uni co-op.
Stuff like Greek baked beans slow cooked with rosemary and dill on sourdough olive bread ($12) and organic roast mushrooms marinated in lemon juice, pine nuts and kefalotyri (a hard sheep milk cheese) served with organic greens on sourdough toast ($12). The menu also points out they use gluten-free bread, serve bon-soi and like my new haircut. Thanks, I think it’ll look better in a week.
I buck the trend and decide to eat some flesh, going for the Mess O’ Beans Southern-style with organic pork, fennel and chili sausage on cornbread ($14).
This sloppy dish is easier to photograph than eat. The beans, onion and tomato work well texturally together, while the cornbread does an admirable job mopping up the mess. The whole thing’s under-seasoned (an issue easily fixed with some S&P.). The sausages are a little bland but overall it’s a good, gutsy brunch. Plus I like almost anything with cornbread.
If you’re into organic, veg-friendly, bon-soi and a community feel Each Peach is for you. For all the others go because they’ve started making their own ice-cream for summer.
While you’re in the area check out the other shops in this neat little corner of Melbourne.
506 Lygon St, Brunswick East
Tues – Thurs 9am – 4pm
Fri – Sun 9am – 5pm
In the first of our monthly peek behind-the-scenes of Melbourne's restaurant scene, we witness the mayhem and madness of Chin Chin's daily staff meal. Affectionately known at 'trough'.
We were lucky enough to attend Chin Chin's first birthday bash and document David Thompson's 13-course degustation as it happened.