Hoboken Opens

After a ‘soft’ opening last Thursday, Hoboken opens good and proper this week, squeezed between Misty and Movida on speckled Hosier Lane.

Named after Hoboken, New Jersey and an nod to hobos everywhere, this new cafe from Hugh Thorn (Von Haus, Misty) is relaxed, simple and straightforward. Occupying a space that used to be the southern half of Misty, Thorn and his team have knocked a few holes in the wall to let the light gush in from adjacent Rutledge Lane, where they plan to have an outdoor area in the warmer months. Inside, there are communal tables, recycled furniture and a community notice board, the sort we used to have before facebook.

Behind the counter you’ll find Seven Seeds coffee and a range of Mclver’s Tea. Or if you’re so inclined you can dip your beak in a Hobobrew or a local wine served under the Hobo label. Food-wise, options are deliberately stripped back, with a focus on simplicity and doing a few items well. Breakfast might be toasties, an omelette pocket or slow cooked porridge. Lunch revolves around their signature dish: red beans and rice, which can be jazzed up with fetta, smoked ham hock, collared greens and plenty of hot sauce.

I was too early for the beans, and opted for a toastie with mushroom, baby spinach, parsley, walnut pesto and cheese ($10.50). Served in an enamal plate, my wonder white toastie is liberally buttered, gooey, hot as Hades and hits the spot. The type of dish my dad would say ‘sticks to the ribs’.

A world away from the fancy pants dining next door at Movida, Hoboken’s focus on home-style, hearty cooking is just the ticket as the ducks head south for the winter.

Hoboken
3 Hosier Lane
Melbourne, 3000
Mon – Fri 7am – 4pm
www.hoboken.com.au